How To Fix Bike Not Changing Gears – Nothing interferes with a smooth journey like a prenatzon who refuses to move in the highest gear. Regardless of whether you grind climbing or on a flat tar road, seamless gear crossings are required. In this article, I would exactly go out with how I solved this problem with my bike after upgrading to a larger external chain ring and a new preliminary installation.
It’s not just a basic doing-it’s deep diving in mechanical harmony, leveling accuracy and small adjustments
How To Fix Bike Not Changing Gears
The difference. Starting with switching positioning and limiting screws to cable tension tricks and even bent chain teeth recognition, we will cover it all.
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Regardless of whether you have created a new drive or create a depressed variable problem, here you will find practical, difficult solutions. Let’s move this problem in a large gear – literally.
Recently, I installed Hollowtech II crankshaft with new chain rings. I switched from 42 teeth to 46 tooth outer ring, which meant that I also need to change the previous name.
This was because the larger chain ring forced the switch to sit higher on the pipe. And that would not have been possible with my current e-type prisoner mountain.
So I bought exactly the same Shimano FD-M770-Voor-Deillur with the seat pipe approval. Of course, this means that I have to set up and set the pren stake properly to move it properly.
Basic Bike Fit
I will make it obvious here that pure drive increases shows. So, if you are working on setting up your leading switchers, make sure your driveway is clean. At least to the extent that it has no negative impact on variable performance.
Since I still had to remove the chain and restore the chains, I took the opportunity to widely clean the chain and the lower bracket.
This includes placing the front ordinance on the bike in such a way that the switching cage is properly located in the outer circuit and chain.
There is a curve in the switching cage that follows the chain ring curve. If you look directly on the crank, the lower part of the switching cage should be placed 2 mm. above the outer ring.
Bike Not 2025 Changing Gears
Incorrect placement can cause a cage moving against the middle ring of the teeth. You know this is the case when you hear a rattling sound.
It may also happen that the upper part of the cage connects to the chain. Since this part of the chain is on the ring, it will not be changed as the chain teeth sit in the chain and hold it in place.
When I’m happy with the configuration, I tighten the screw until it starts to negatively move towards the outer ring. Then I relax the screw and know that the screw is as stiff as possible, so when moving, the chain will never be pressed from the outer ring.
The switching cage must walk in the same direction as the chains. An easy way to check if this is the case is to look from above.
How To Change Bike Chainrings
Another way you can test is by hand on the outer chain ring pulling by hand and seeing if it follows properly.
Above there are two screws -the switchers, including the one in front. These screws are called limit screws and determine the rotation angle of the switching system, so how far the switch can move to the frame and away from it.
Losing screws means that the angle gets bigger and the cage can move on. The screw closest to the frame, or one that has H, which denotes a “high” gear, determines how far the cage can move outside.
If the H screw is tied too much, the switch cannot move enough. And if the cage cannot move enough, the chain he pushes will not move and will not go to the external chain.
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I usually put H screw to discover so that the switch is not limited at all. In this way, I can check the drive configuration if it is delayed by the restriction screw.
When I’m happy with the configuration, I tighten the screw until it starts to negatively move towards the outer ring. After that, I relax a bit of the screw and know that the screw is just as stiff, because the chain will never be pressed from the outer ring while moving.
The cable attached to the front switch must be as firm as possible without moving the front switch.
The starting position of the leading switch is closest to the frame. So make sure that the switching switching in the front sits in the lowest gear, tying the cable.
How To Adjust Rear Derailleur
If your cable is soft, it means that the variable operation is used to pull the cable and move the switching cage. And if you use a switch that does not move the switching cage or not moving, you will, of course, do not change properly.
Since I don’t have a very expensive cable, I just use pliers to keep the cable in place by attaching the screw.
If you feel that the cable is too stiff, you can place the pliers for 2 mm. Under the tightening screw, unscrew the screw so that the cable is tightened and pulled the screw again.
It is very difficult if even impossible to complete the prior switcher without using the barrel score between the switcher and the switching cable.
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The barrel ratio can press the cable body from the slider. As the cable remains in the same place, it means that the cable is more drawn.
Usually the cable still has a slight flesh. So I always pull the barrel result until it is against the switch. This way I can remove the cable that remains, which remains with a few turns, and never runs out of the room.
If you were in the accident and that the previous name is not working properly, it may be worth checking whether one or more of your chain teeth are bent.
I wrote a separate article on how to attach the bent chain teeth. Suffice it to say that it should improve the ability to switch to another chain ring.
Front Derailleur Adjustment
No matter how well I installed the front -dermeur, almost always the last touch with a barrel goal scorer is made on a bike.
This bike now has a prior name with impeccable variable features. I hope you can reach it for your trip.
Appointed with more than 20 years of practical cycling experience such as Amstel Gold Race and Luikbastogne-Liège to restore classic Cannondales and Scotts, Johann’s resistance to the world with deep technical knowledge.
Johann, a former bicycle store mechanic and a temporary bicycle salesman, provides a direct insight into everything from a high -performance road race to DIY bike. After obtaining a Master’s degree in Engineering at the University of Amsterdam, he focuses on his passion for cycling wisdom sharing through detailed guides, equipment assessment and projects.
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, and if he is not on a bicycle or under work, he writes by filming training and nutrition and recovery strategies on the open road.
