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Best Car Settings For Carx Drift Racing
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This item is incompatible with Carx Drift Racing Online. Please refer to the instruction page for the reasons that this item does not work within the carx drift racing online.
Always welcome, how good would it be good to reach 80 that you like 90⁰ and achieve a lot?
I try to process these scenarios in this guide by promising a unique universal guide of melody for all cars games. Yes, it works even if semi-traces.
This guide explains very basic concepts, so if you pumped a hundred hours in the game or you can know the car tuning – this guide is not for you and feels boring or incomprehensible.
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In addition, I am not an engineer or mechanic, so it is based on my experiments, other guides, some research and other games.
Well, not just one melody. More than a general fundamental direction from you, which can then be comfortably experimented to see what suits your own driving style. Yes, you can learn something about setting, just read it – don’t copy the melody of other people from the screenshot! 
I will explain completely detailed setup, so if you only want numbers – look at the abstract (TLDR)
Make sure the setting should be set to maximize Drift points (not precise drift or tandem), and you almost always need your car to do properly.
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Although this is 80k + on the American road, advantages 100k + Navaro and other numbers, so I couldn’t complain.
I use all examples of “Ultimate” settings because this is the most interesting. Note that the domestic proposals will be done as long as farmers are placed properly.
I see you decided not to go straight to summary (TLDR) and stay with good things. Beautiful. I like it.
First of all, we have to deal with a suspension because this is the most important element that leads this drift.
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Rear conical shortcomings results in rear wheels on the road or a little negative T.
However, if you plan to leave the back suspension soft – a little positive rear camera will do more. The reason for this is that the rear cone then increases the signal (-1-6 degrees) during the drift when the rear suspension is soft.
The front cone and roller complement themselves – others must “match” the first value, so the outer front wheel is almost complete with soil contact if it is fully installed:
For our goal, the front kabier is primarily about style: as much as you want, as long as the wheel is properly set up (as shown above).
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Set the camera to the left side of the car (as shown above), start tweaking the roller and pay attention to the value of the “front camera”: it must be a little positive (from 0 to 1). This is a car that will maintain the maximum towing on the outer front wheel, which is necessary during a balanced drift.
Note: More positive curly angles (2-4 degrees) The car appears from the overlook and rather on uneven roads (such as mountain roads).
If the back is soft, the car feels harder and “lazy”; It also helps tow during the drift;
If the rear parts are much stronger than the front, the car is alive and lives, but there is less stability.
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Personally I prefer that the back parts have almost more stiffness, keeping medium values in the middle of the mean values - which usually car usually form (and more unstable for fair).
Simple: Reducing sources – less inertia and body roll the car when turning on the side to another. This promotes the wheel cable control during the drift.
The last toe helps a car from very sharp corners (such as an unsignificable drift), which sacrifice access:
And with an extreme negative front toe, a slightly larger steering angle when straight stability is ejected to help the bracket.
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Currently, our main goal is to maximize the wheel friction to facilitate the maintenance of wider corners (such as 70-80 +). To do this, we must adjust to:
Low front tire pressure (70-140) drastically increases friction (not adhesion!), Which is a huge help sweet-sweet sweet sweet when it hovers into the corner.
Increased front tire frenzes facilitates angles of 85-90 degrees without sacrificing or risky stability. The exact perfect value is different from car to car, then try to set up a default 100 kPa (14.5 dogs), then set: It’s bigger if you’ll spin the spin-out, it’s lower if the angle sailing is not enough.
Now Sous puts low pressure, at least in the real world. The reason for this is to wear tire tires at a lower pressure, which can be expensive very quickly.
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2.7.1. Update: New Physics The first tire pressure makes less factors to expel the corners, so that some cars must be adjusted lower now than it is possible to achieve the same effect, if it softens the front muffler to 10% -30%.
As back tires, set more, about 220 kPa (~ 32 psi) for better towers. Even with high values, they are smaller, which is easier to change the direction … and easier Spin-Outs. So be a cafe.
You can usually set it only to the highest possible level: the front part must be prevented by performing (and failed stards) for maximum towing and back.
Keep the idea that adhesion “consumes” strength, ie some underground cars (such as MUP) or have difficulty running angles, reducing Adhelt adhesion.
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The following rule is subject to: higher administration, the more car “gravitating” towards Zarna (which means a stricter drift) when the less tires pastes your car like long ice.
Bigger wheels turn fast and require more energy – it works. You are too much – turn too fast – you keep spinning. Too little – slowly spin – they need a higher speed to reject less maximum speed. Usually what looks good – and works well here.
I’m not a fan of huge campers, so I prefer the below profile (20-25%) to make my wheel easier.
And if the base of the front wheel is much wider than the back, and the car is a ber extremely excited and IL, but it is a bonus, even with murder.
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We determine the limit for adjusting the top torque curve around the usual range to turn RPM, which is usually at the end – because the keyboard is brighter on the floor.
This will always lead to the maximum torque until the car is reduced on the track.
The best way to adjust is set to maximum, then depress to the top of the resolution:
Don’t forget to try to leave the raining on the throttle, just so you would always have such a sweet power, even if you released a pedal.
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So okay to have a high torque point at the end of RPM range – you don’t have to reduce any other parameter to create additional gardens.
I like to ask differently on the complete latch just to make the car always inserted every order.
I give it to you or other guides, because it is too much consuming to set them for a guide.
Leave them and just try to use those who feel good for current speed.
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But just like a little review: greater value means that shorter speed means less power / speed you need to give up. The reverse is true.
While interruptions can be suitable for precision drift – popular for XDS or tandem – they are no longer useful to us; For at least one initial setting.
So it’s all
